How is it already the end of August?! I feel like summer just started. Anyone else feel this way? While a lot of families and teachers are getting ready to go back to school (or have already started), since I have now finished my Ph.D., for the first time in eight years I’m not getting ready to head back for a fall semester. It feels weird to be leaving academia, but I’m also happy I get to hang on to summer for a little bit longer this year.
However, I know fall is around the corner so when deciding to make a crochet tee, I wanted something that I could wear now but would also transition well into the upcoming cooler months. This stitch pattern reminds me of garden trellises and woven rattan, bringing back feelings of nostalgia from childhood summers spent outdoors, but really, this garment can be extended well outside of the summer months. In this Rustic Summer Tee pattern, the short sleeves and somewhat open stitch pattern help to keep you from getting too hot when the weather is still warm, but also layers nicely under a jacket or blazer when the air starts to turn chilly.
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I made my samples using WeCrochet CotLin (the multicolored striped tee shown above) and Premier Cotton Sprouts (DK) (the blue tee), but Lion Brand Coboo also matches gauge well if you want to work with a cotton or cotton blend. If you are looking for something a little warmer, WeCrochet Swish DK is of similar weight, but make sure you definitely make a gauge swatch and block it before starting, as I’ve found Swish tends to stretch out a bit when wet (but it is so soft!).
If you have never made a garment before, this one is fairly beginner friendly and a great one to start with because the construction is super simple. You basically make two rectangles, sew them together leaving an opening for your head and each arm, and then stitch around the openings to reinforce the neckline and create a little bit more sleeve. And that’s it! Ready to give it a try? Then keep reading below!
Pin here to come back to this pattern later!
Rustic Summer Tee
Pattern Difficulty: Advanced Beginner
*Crochet hook: I/5.5mm hook, or what is required to match gauge
*Yarn: Approximately 530-1490 yards of #3/DK weight yarn
*Yarn needle for sewing seams and weaving in ends
*Stitch markers (optional)
slst: slip stitch
sc: single crochet
hdc: half double crochet
hdc2tog: half double crochet 2 together, also often called a hdc decrease
- Yarn over, insert your hook into the first st and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert your hook into the next st and pull up a loop (5 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all 5 loops.
h-hdc: herringbone half double crochet
- Yarn over, insert your hook into the stitch and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook). Without yarning over, pull the first loop through the second. Then, yarn over and pull through remaining 2 loops.
RS/WS: right side/wrong side
Gauge: 13 sts x 12 rows = 4” LIGHTLY BLOCKED
To make a gauge swatch, ch 19 and then follow Rows 1-8 in the pattern below twice (16 total rows). Lightly block – you shouldn’t need to pin it. Your gauge swatch will be larger than 4”. Measure in the middle of your swatch, starting with Row 4.
* This pattern is written using US terminology and all measurements are made in inches.
* In rows that start with a ch 1, the ch 1 does NOT count as a stitch, so the first stitch will go in the same stitch as the chain. In rows starting with a ch 2, the ch 2 DOES count as a stitch so the first stitch goes in the next stitch and the last stitch of the following row will go in the top of the ch 2. See Helpful Hints and photos for reminders and stitch placement.
* Sizes are always provided in the following order (XS, S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL). Numbers in ( ) indicate row numbers at the beginning of the row and final stitch count at the end of the row. Numbers in [ ] within the pattern instructions indicate the number of times you do something.
* Stitch counts are only listed when they change. If no stitch count is listed, it is the same as the last listed stitch count.
Panels (Make 2!):
To start: Ch (53, 59, 67, 73, 79, 85, 93, 99, 105)
Helpful Hint: It helps to keep your ch loose or go up a hook size just for the ch to give your hem a little more stretch.
Row 1 (WS): Starting in the second ch from your hook, h-hdc in the back bump of each ch across (52, 58, 66, 72, 78, 84, 92, 98, 104)
Row 2 (RS): ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), turn, h-hdc in each st across
Row 3 (WS): Repeat Row 2
Row 4 (RS): ch 2 (counts as a st), turn, *hdc2tog over the next 2 st, ch 1**, repeat from *to** across until 1 st remains, hdc in the last st
Helpful Hint 1: Remember, since the ch 2 counts as a st, the first part of your hdc2tog will start in the next st, NOT the same st as the ch
Helpful Hint 2: After each hdc2tog, keep your ch 1 loose as you will be stitching into them in the next row.
Row 5 (WS): ch 1, turn, sc in each st across
NOTE: Stitch into the ch sts, not the ch spaces.
Helpful Hint: Your last st will go in the top of the ch 2 from the previous row.
Row 6 (RS): Repeat Row 4
Row 7 (WS): Repeat Row 5
Row 8 (RS): Repeat Row 4
Rows 9 (WS): ch 1, turn, h-hdc in each st across
NOTE: Stitch into the ch sts, not the ch spaces.
Rows 10-11 (RS/WS): Repeat Row 9
Rows 12-(59, 59, 59, 67, 67, 75, 75, 83, 83): Repeat Rows 4-11 [6, 6, 6, 7, 7, 8, 8, 9, 9] more times. After your last st, fasten off, leaving a long tail to seam the shoulders (approximately 18-20”). Continue on to the Seaming section below.
Helpful Hint: This pattern can easily be made longer or shorter by adjusting the number of repeats. Adjust to your preference, making sure to end on a repeat of Row 11.
It is recommended that you block your panels before seaming to ensure everything lines up properly. Feel free to use whatever seaming method you prefer, although I recommend the mattress stitch for the most invisible seam. If you are unsure how to do the mattress stitch, there are many great tutorials on YouTube.
1. Line up your two panels with the long tails on opposite ends (if using the mattress stitch, place your panels with the RS facing out).
2. Shoulder seaming: From each top corner, count in (10, 13, 17, 20, 23, 26, 30, 33, 36) sts and place a stitch marker. You will then seam using your seaming method of choice from the corner to this marker. This should leave approximately 10” of unworked stitches in the middle for the neck opening. If you would like a larger neck opening, seam less stitches, making sure to keep each side even.
3. Side seaming: To seam the sides you will reattach your yarn at the bottom corners and seam up. To determine how far up to seam, I recommend trying on your garment and using a stitch marker under your arm to mark the size of your preferred armhole. You can also use the provided chart below. This chart is based on Craft Yarn Council sizing and the recommended arm hole depth is measured from the shoulder down. Make sure you are seaming evenly on both sides.
|Recommended Arm Hole Depths|
With the RS facing out, reattach your yarn to the underside of the arm opening.
Round 1 (RS): ch 1, evenly h-hdc around the arm opening, slst to first st to join
NOTE: Stitch counts are not included here as it depends on how large you make the arm openings. Use your best judgement. If your sleeve seems to be puckering, more stitches are needed. If it is rippling, less stitches are needed.
Round 2 (RS): ch 1, h-hdc in each st around, slst to first st to join
Helpful Hint: You are NOT turning between rounds for the sleeves. All rounds will be worked on the RS.
Round 3 (RS): Repeat Round 2
Helpful Hint: If you would like more sleeve coverage, add a few extra rounds before fastening off!
Fasten off and repeat around the other arm opening.
With the RS facing out, reattach your yarn to the stitch next to one of the shoulder seams. Ch 1 and sc around the entire opening. Slst to the first stitch to join. Fasten off and weave in all your ends.