Author: Nicole

Accessories, Free Patterns

Driftwood Pumpkins

Nicole

Back in July, I decided to try my hand at making a crocheted pumpkin. I kind of laughed at how early it was to be making pumpkins (I mean, we were having a heat wave and it was over 100*F), but not even a week later I started seeing pumpkins on my Instagram feed. So apparently my timing was actually impeccable!

When I set out to create this pattern, I wanted something with a fun, subtle texture. The crumpled griddle stitch that I’ve used in my Driftwood patterns sounded like it would fit the bill, and I couldn’t love them more! If you’ve never made amigurumi, pumpkins are a great start because they are pretty simple. For this one you will start by making a rectangle panel. Then, you seam edges together to make a tube, cinch one end closed, stuff the pumpkin, cinch the other end closed, and then run the yarn through certain rows to create the ridging. Not too complicated, right?

Small
Medium
Chunky Monkey (ie. Large)

While polyester fiber filling us often used to stuff pumpkins, you can also use something like cotton balls or use up scrap ends of yarn instead! No need to go out and buy something new if you don’t already have it. But if you do use polyester fiber fill, fluffier types tend to work better than stiffer types.

So if you are ready to make a pumpkin, keep reading because you can get the directions for the smallest pumpkin in the Driftwood patch below!

Want an add-free, printable PDF with 3 pumpkin sizes and step by step construction photos? Check out my Etsy Shop or Ravelry Shop to purchase the full pattern!

Pin for later here!

Small Driftwood Pumpkin Pattern

Pattern Difficulty: Advanced Beginner

Materials:
*Crochet Hook: 4.5mm hook, or what is required to match gauge
*Yarn: Approximately 60 yards of #4/worsted weight yarn
*Polyester fiber fill, cotton balls, yarn scraps, or other materials for stuffing pumpkins
*Scrap yarn, cinnamon sticks, or twigs to use as pumpkin stems
*Yarn needle
*Scissors
*Stitch markers (optional)
*Leaf tags, twine, ribbon, or other adornments (optional)

Stitches Used:
st(s): stitches
ch: chain
sc: single crochet
scflo: single crochet in the front loop only
fsc: foundation single crochet (optional)
dc: double crochet
dcflo: double crochet in the front loop only

Gauge: 15 sts x 12 rows of pattern repeat = 4”
NOTE: Gauge isn’t super important for this pattern, however, your pumpkin may turn out larger or smaller than what’s written if your gauge differs.

Notes:
* This pattern is written using US terminology.

* The turning chain at the beginning of the row does NOT count as a stitch, so the first stitch will go in the same stitch as the chain.

* This pattern uses the “crumpled griddle stitch”. Your single crochet stitches will stack on top of the single crochet stitches from the row before and the double crochet stitches will stack on top of the double crochet stitches.

* There is a right side and a wrong side to this pattern. It’s a subtle difference, but the right side has sc stitches with bars on either side them separating each “block”.

Pattern:
Row 1: To start, either fsc 23 OR ch 24 and then sc across starting in the second ch from your hook (23)
NOTE: Stitch count remains the same throughout the rest of the pattern.

Row 2: ch 1, turn, scflo in the first st, dcflo in the next st, continue alternating scflo and dcflo across, ending with a scflo
Helpful Hint: While not required, to prevent your stuffing from showing through at the end, place your sc sts under both the bar in the front just under your loops and the front loop for more stability.

Row 3: ch 1, turn, sc in the first st, dc in the next st, continue alternating sc and dc across, ending with a sc
Helpful Hint: Your sc will stack on top of the sc from the round before and your dc will stack on top of the dc.

Rows: 4-6: Repeat Row 3
Helpful Hint: You will have 5 rows total of the crumpled griddle stitch per repeat.

Row 7: ch 1, turn, sc across in the back loop only

Rows 8-30: Repeat Rows 2-7 four more times for a total of 5 “blocks”. On the last block, end on a Row 6 (stop before the sc back loop only row). Fasten off, leaving a tail of approximately 50-60 inches to close up your pumpkin.

To Close the Pumpkin:
1. With the right sides facing each other, bring the short ends of your panel together with the chain or fsc side closest to you. Whip stitch across, going under the front loop only of the ch/fsc edge (the loop closest to you on the edge closest to you) and under both loops on the crumpled griddle edge (the edge furthest away from you). Tie to secure, but do not cut your yarn. You should now have a tube.

2. Taking your yarn needle, weave in and out around the open edge. When you get back to where you started, pull your yarn to cinch the opening closed. If you can’t get the hole completely closed, sew across the opening a few times to help tighten it. This can happen with any size, but especially with the larger pumpkins. Tie to secure, but do not cut your yarn. Turn your pumpkin right side out.

3. Pull your yarn up through the center of your pumpkin. Stuff your pumpkin using your stuffing material of choice.
Helpful Hint: Hold your yarn in the middle and add your stuffing around the yarn.

4. Weave in and out around the open edge. When you get back to where you started, pull your yarn to cinch the opening closed. Again, if you can’t get the hole completely closed, sew across the opening a few times. Tie to secure, but do not cut your yarn.

5. To create the ridges, find your sc only rows. The front loop and back loop stitches act as a guide for these rows and make it easier to see where they are. Using your yarn needle, run through the sc rows from the top of the pumpkin to the bottom and pull tight. You will be running your needle through the legs of the sc sts. Then, pull your yarn back up through the center of the pumpkin and repeat through the other sc rows. Tie to secure and cut your yarn.
Helpful Hints: At the start and finish of the sc rows (right at the top and bottom of the pumpkin), it can be hard to see exactly where to run your needle through. It doesn’t need to be perfect, just do your best to find the approximate stitches.

To create a stem, ch 8, then sc across starting in the second ch from your hook. Tie on to the pumpkin to secure and weave in your ends. You can also use a twig or cinnamon stick instead. Add any additional adornments you wish (such as a ribbon or twine bow, leaf tag cutouts, etc.) and you are finished!

I want to see what you make! Be sure to share a photo of your finished pumpkins with me! When posting on social media be sure to tag @fromnicolescreations and use hashtags #driftwoodpumpkin and #fromnicolescreations so I can see them!

Patterns

Gemstone Bag Crochet Pattern

Nicole

Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links. This means if you click on a link and make a purchase from that website, I may receive a commission at no additional cost to you. For more information, see my Disclosures page.

The Gemstone pattern collection now has a new addition – a bag! When I got the idea to make a bag in this style, I knew the Gemstone stitch combination would be a perfect fit. I absolutely love the texture and look of this bag from the fun “gemstones” in the body, to the shape of the straps, and finishing with the bunny ear ties at the top. And the best part? This bag works up fairly quickly once you get the hang of the stitch. I gave my testers a two week testing window and some of them made 3 (or more!) bags in that timeframe! Wow!


This pattern has instructions for 2 sizes – a small bag (approximately 8″ across when laid flat) and a large bag (approximately 11″ across). However, the bag is really easy to tailor to whatever size you want. Plus, the straps are completely customizable to your desired length. Wear it as a shoulder bag, a beach bag, or make a fun Mommy & Me set with the two different sizes!

This pattern is worked from the bottom up, first in the round to form the base and body of the bag, then in turned rows to work each strap individually. The bag straps are finished off with bunny ears at the top and then a slip stitch edging is made around the straps to make a nice clean finish. I personally find cotton yarn the best to use for making bags, although some people find success with acrylic. I used Bernat Handicrafter cotton when I designed it, but Lily Sugar ‘n Cream, Peaches & Cream, WeCrochet Dishie, or other mid-weight worsted cotton would also be great alternatives.


Get the full pattern as an ad-free PDF in my Ravelry Shop or Etsy Shop.
Through July 3rd, 2022, you can get ALL of the Gemstone patterns, including this one, for 20% off (no code needed)! Those on my email list often get extra perks, so make sure to sign up before my next pattern releases! Sign up here!

Click HERE to pin it for later!

Pattern Details

Pattern Difficulty: Advanced Beginner

Materials:
*Crochet Hook: H/5.0mm, or what is required to match gauge
*Yarn: Approximately 200-375 yards of #4/worsted weight yarn
*Yarn needle for weaving in ends
*Scissors
*Measuring tape
*Stitch markers (optional)

Stitches Used:
st(s): stitch(es)
ch: chain
slst: slip stitch
sc: single crochet
sc2tog: single crochet 2 together/sc decrease
hdc: half double crochet
dc: double crochet
dfpdc: double front post double crochet (click here to see how to make this stitch!)

Be sure to check out my Instagram page to see all of the versions my testers made or check out my Gemstone Bag pattern Instagram Guide for color inspiration!

When you make one, be sure to share a photo of your finished product with me! When posting on social media be sure to tag @fromnicolescreations and use hashtags #crochetgemstonebag, #crochetgemstonecollection, and #fromnicolescreations! I can’t wait to see when you make!

Accessories, Free Patterns

Bonfire Ice Cream Cozie: Free Crochet Pattern

Nicole

Today I bring to you the Bonfire Ice Cream Cozie for #FreePatternFriday! (Is that a thing? If not, I’m making it a thing! Who doesn’t love a free pattern?)

I have to admit, when I first saw an ice cream pint cozie, I thought that it was a really novel idea, but also kind of a novelty item – something that seems really awesome in concept so you buy it but then you never really use it and it ends up living in a forgotten corner of some drawer, never to be seen again (you know what drawer I’m talking about). But then a few weeks later I was eating ice cream straight from the pint (because bowls are for armatures) and I realized just how cold my hands were getting. Suddenly the idea didn’t seem so silly.

This cozie features two different post stitches – the front post double crochet and the double front post double crochet stitch – to give it a fun texture that looks a bit like rising smoke (hence the name “Bonfire”). The finished cozie is approximately 4.5 inches wide x 3.5 inches tall when laid flat and fits most pint-sized ice cream containers.

For a cold cozie like this, either cotton or acrylic worsted weight yarn work well. I chose to use Bernat Handicrafter Cotton and Lily Sugar ‘n Cream cotton for mine. If you use a soft cotton yarn or acrylic, you may need to go down a hook size to get your cozie to grip the cup appropriately because softer yarns can have a lot more stretch to them. They work up fast, so play with it and see what works best for you. At only 30-40 yards of yarn, this is a great stash buster!

Bonfire Ice Cream Cozie Pattern

Click here to Pin this pattern for later!

An ad-free PDF of this pattern is also available on Ravelry and Etsy for a small fee. The paid pattern additionally includes a section about how to make the cozie larger or smaller!

Pattern Difficulty: Advanced Beginner

Materials:
*Crochet Hook: H/5.0mm, or what is required to match gauge
*Yarn: Approximately 30-40 yards of #4/worsted weight yarn
*Yarn needle for weaving in ends
*Scissors
*Measuring tape
*Stitch markers (optional)

Stitch Abbreviations:
st(s): stitch(es)
ch: chain
slst: slip stitch
sc: single crochet
fsc: foundation single crochet (optional)
dc: double crochet
fpdc: front post double crochet
dfpdc: double front post double crochet (click here to see how to make this stitch!)

Techniques:
Invisible slst to join: After you complete the last st of the round, remove your hook from the loop, insert your hook from back to front through the first st of the round (make sure the working yarn is under your hook), put the loop you dropped back on your hook, and pull it through to the back. Chain and work the next row as written. This pulls the seam to the inside of your work.

Gauge: Approximately 13.5 dc sts by 7 rows = 4 inches x 4 inches
NOTE: If you are having trouble matching gauge in both width and height, match width (number of stitches) because that determines the circumference. You can always add or subtract rows to get the desired height, if needed.

Notes:
* This pattern is written using US terminology.

* The starting chain at the beginning of the round does NOT count as a stitch, so the first stitch will go in the same stitch as the chain. When you close each round, you will slip stitch to the top of the first stitch, NOT the starting chain.

Pattern:
Round 1: To start, you can either crochet 30 fsc OR ch 31 and then sc across starting in the 2nd ch from the hook. Crocheter’s choice. Making sure your row hasn’t twisted, invisible slst to the first stitch to join, forming a circle. (30)
NOTE: You will have a small gap at the bottom of this row. When you finish your cozie, use your tail to sew the gap closed.

Round 2: ch 1, dc in each st around, invisible slst to first st to join (30)

Round 3: ch 2, *fpdc, dc, dc, dfpdc, dc**, repeat from * to ** around, invisible slst to first st to join (30)

Round 4: ch 2, *fpdc, dc, dfpdc, dc, dc**, repeat from * to ** around, invisible slst to first st to join (30)
Helpful Hint: The fpdc will always stack on top of the previous fpdc and the first and last dc of the repeat will stack on top of dc sts. The only thing that changes is the 2nd dc and the dfpdc.

Round 5-7: Repeat Rounds 3 and 4
Helpful Hint: The height of your finished piece can vary a lot depending on the yarn you use and how much you lift up your loops when making the dfpdc. Use your measuring tape before moving to the last round to ensure you will get the height you want (should be about 3.25” tall).

Round 8: ch 1, sc in each st around, slst to first st to join (30)

Fasten off, sew the gap closed in your starting band using your tail, and weave in your ends.

A big THANK YOU to a few of my favorite crochet people who helped me test this pattern. Check out their work below and then go check out their Instagram pages!

Credit: Carrie @crazy.cat.lady.creations
Credit: Rosie @knitexpressions
Credit: Leeah @one_in_custody
Credit: Caitlyn @mcaitlyn

Posting on social media? Please give pattern credit to @FromNicolesCreations and use hashtags #bonfireicecreamcozie, #thebonfirecollection, and #fromnicolescreations. I want to see what you make!

Stitch Turorial

Stitch Tutorial: Double Front Post Double Crochet

Nicole

The “double front post double crochet” (abbreviated: dfpdc) is not a stitch you may have heard of before, but it’s one I’ve been loving a lot lately. Three of my collections this past fall – Drifting Leaves, Bonfire, and Gemstone – featured this stitch and I’m not done with it yet! In fact, I have at least two upcoming patterns that will use it and one is going to be offered free here on the blog, so I thought I’d teach you how to do the stitch before those patterns release.

Drifting Leaves
Bonfire
Gemstone

If you are familiar with the front post double crochet or the alpine stitch, then you should have no problem picking this one up. It’s basically a front post double crochet, but you go around the post twice to draw up loops instead of once to create the extra squishiness of the stitch. Easy, right? So let’s get into it!

To start, you need a base row of stitches (most commonly double crochet stitches) so you have posts to work around. To work the stitch, yarn over and insert your hook around the post of the dc from the row below (A)

Yarn over and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook). Pull up on the loop until it’s about even with your working row (B), then yarn over and insert your hook around the same dc post and pull up another loop, (5 loops on hook) (C)

Yarn over and pull through 4 loops (2 loops left on hook) (D)

Yarn over and pull through the remaining 2 loops (E)

Working around the post takes the place of working in the stitch, so make sure you skip the stitch behind the post stitch.

And that’s it! Depending on what you plan to do with the stitch, you need to make sure to have at least one regular double crochet between the dfpdc stitches so they don’t become too crowded. They look great spaced out, like in my Drifting Leaves patterns, or clustered together, like patterns in my Gemstone collection. Also, pro tip: if you use this stitch in turned rows, put a row of single crochet stitches after each dfpdc row so the stitches all pop out on the same side of your work! If you are working in the round, you can use the row of single crochet or not, it works both ways.

Go ahead and practice this stitch so you are ready when my new patterns release! If you are interested in any of my existing patterns using this stitch, you can find them here:

Drifting Leaves:
Beanie Etsy Ravelry
Headband/Cowl Bundle Etsy Ravelry

Bonfire:
Beanie Etsy Ravelry
Headband Etsy Ravelry
Cowl Etsy Ravelry

Gemstone:
Beanie Etsy Ravelry
Headband Etsy Ravelry
Cowl Etsy Ravelry
Cup Cozies Etsy Ravelry

Sunstar Scrubbie Etsy Ravelry

Until next time!

Uncategorized

Welcome to my blog!

Nicole

Hello, friend, and welcome to my crochet blog! You may know me from my Instagram account @fromnicolescreations, but if you don’t, my name is Nicole and I am the maker, designer, and creative force behind From: Nicole’s Creations, an indie crochet business focused on providing you with quality crochet designs and handmade items. My handmade items can currently be found exclusively in my Etsy shop, although I’m hoping to break into some local markets this fall, and my crochet patterns are available on both Etsy and Ravelry.

The idea for a blog came about when I was trying to work on a social media strategy for my business a few months ago. I was trying to develop some value based content that I could put in the form of Reels or carousel posts on Instagram to try to increase my reach and engagement. I easily came up with a bunch of ideas, but the more I came up with, the more I realized what I wanted to do with those topics was going to be more in depth or involved than what Instagram would provide. That’s when I realized what I was actually creating were blog topics! And so the blog idea was born. While a lot of those topics will still show up on my Instagram, it allows me the opportunity to introduce a topic there while providing the additional context and details here, getting the best of both forms of media.

So what can you expect from this blog? I hope to post at least a couple of times each month with stitch tutorials of some of my favorite stitches, some “how-to” posts providing information on different crochet techniques or construction methods, promo posts for my paid patterns giving you more insight into my inspiration and yarn choices, and of course, everyone’s favorite, free crochet patterns!

Did you know one of my patterns is already available for free? Last summer I was a guest designer for Breann over on the Hooked on Homemade Happiness blog. Check it out here! The pattern is also available as a paid, ad-free PDF in my Etsy and Ravelry shops, if that’s more your style.

I can’t wait to get started sharing my love of crochet with you! To make sure you never miss a post, scroll down to the bottom of the page, enter your email address, and hit that subscribe button. To get sneak peeks of what I’m working on or to find out when I have tester calls for new patterns, make sure you are following me on Instagram @fromnicolescreations. See you soon!