Summer is definitely one of my favorite seasons. I love the laid back feel of the season and the fact that every week I can go to the farmer’s market and get freshly picked produce that supports my local farmers. Even better? Picking up that produce in a cute market bag I made myself (not to mention, it’s so much more sustainable that the plastic bags they give you if you don’t bring your own). Now, you can get this crochet market bag pattern free here on the blog so you can make one, too! (Prefer video crochet pattern tutorials? I have that as well!)
Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links. This means if you click on a link and make a purchase from that website, I may receive a commission at no additional cost to you. For more information, see my Disclosures page.
Rustic Summer Market Bag Pattern Update
If you’ve been here a while, you might recognize this stitch pattern. It’s the stitch combination featured in all of my Rustic Summer patterns, such as the Rustic Summer Asymmetrical Shawl, the Rustic Summer Tee, or the Rustic Summer Iced Cup Cozy (all patterns found free on the blog!). It’s definitely one of my favorite stitch patterns to make.
What you might not know though, is this pattern was originally designed in 2021. It’s actually the 4th pattern I ever wrote! Five years later, I thought it deserved a glow-up. Now, nothing was wrong with the original pattern, but I have learned A LOT about designing since then and I wanted to make sure the pattern has all of my since learned expertise.
So, what’s been updated in the new pattern? It now has all new formatting and has been put on my new, pretty pattern template. Links have been added for many of the stitch and technique tutorials I have here on the blog to make sure you are always confident in what you are doing. I added two new sizes of bag to the pattern, so you have 3 options to make.
Basically, I took the existing pattern and spruced it up. Plus, I decided to take one of the new sizes and make it both free to view here on the blog and gave it a video tutorial as well! Keep scrolling to get started.
Yarn Suggestions
This pattern calls for approximately 290+ yards of #4 worsted weight yarn. Some people have different preferences for fiber type when making crochet bags, but I recommend a cotton or cotton blend, such as Dishie from WeCrochet or Lion Brand’s Re-Up Bonus Bundle. Dishie has a nice glide to it on your hook and will give you clean, crisp stitches, but it does have a little bit of stretch to it. The Re-Up Bonus Bundle has very little stretch due to the recycled polyester, but it is kind of hard to work with. It is splitty and commonly untwists. I wouldn’t really recommend it for beginners, but it does give a really nice, almost rustic look and feel to your bag.
(Follower exclusive: Shopping WeCrochet? Use code “AWCFROMNICOLE” for 15% off your order!).
Now, why do I say 290+ yards? Because the strap is fully customizable and easy to make longer or shorter based on your preferences and more strap = more yarn needed. The yardage is based on a 20ish inch strap, which is the minimum strap length I recommend, giving a shoulder bag length. But want to make it a crossbody bag of have it hit closer to your hip? Simply make more strap until your bag lays where you want it to. Easy peasy.
Ready to make yours? Keep scrolling for the video and written tutorials!
While the pattern for the medium sized bag can be viewed for free here on the blog, an ad-free PDF can be purchased on Etsy or Ravelry. It’s not only print optimized and ad free, but the PDF includes instructions for 3 different bag sizes with color coded stitch and round counts!
Rustic Summer Market Bag: Free Crochet Pattern
Pattern Difficulty
Advanced Beginner
Skills used: working in the round, single crochet, half double crochet, single crochet decrease, half double crochet decrease, herringbone half double crochet, invisible slip stitch to join, thermal stitch
Materials
Crochet Hook: H/5,0 mm hook, or size required to match gauge
Yarn: Approximately 290+ yards of #4/worsted weight yarn (such as Dishie from WeCrochet or Lion Brand’s Re-Up Bonus Bundle)
Yarn needle for sewing seams and weaving in ends
Scissors
Measuring tape
Stitch markers
Abbreviations
st(s): stitch(es)
sk: skip
ch: chain
slst: slip stitch
sc: single crochet
scblo: single crochet in the back loop only
hdc: half double crochet
sc2tog: single crochet, 2 together
- Insert your hook into the first st and pull up a loop (2 loops on hook). Insert your hook into the next st and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all 3 loops.
hdc2tog: half double crochet, 2 together (half double crochet decrease)
- Yarn over, insert your hook into the first st and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert your hook into the next st and pull up a loop (5 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all 5 loops. Need additional help? Click here for a post from my blog with more on this stitch, including step by step pictures and video.
h-hdc: herringbone half double crochet
- Yarn over, insert your hook into the designated stitch and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook). Without yarning over, pull the first loop through the second. Then, yarn over and pull through remaining loops. Need additional help? Click here for a post from my blog with more on this stitch, including step by step pictures and video.
Techniques to Know
- After you complete the last st of the round, remove your hook from the loop, insert your hook from back to front through the first st of the round (make sure the working yarn is under your hook), put the loop back on your hook, and pull it through to the back. Chain and work the next round as written. This makes the seam less visible in this pattern. Click here for a post from my blog for more on this technique, including step by step pictures and video.
Sizing
If gauge has been met, the finished bag will be approximately 10.5 inches (26 cm) wide and 11.5 inches (29 cm) tall when laid flat (not including the strap).
The PDFs additionally contain instructions for bags sized 9 x 10 inches and 12 x 13 inches. Get the PDFs here: Etsy, Ravelry
Gauge
Follow the directions for the base of the bag. After Round 3 your circle should be approximately 2.5 inches (6.35 cm) across. After Round 5 your circle should be approximately 4.25 inches (10.8 cm) across. After Round 7 your circle should be approximately 6 inches (15.25 cm) across.
- NOTE: Gauge isn’t super important for a bag. However, your bag may turn out larger or smaller than what’s written if your gauge differs and may require a different amount of yarn. If you want a bag similar in size to what’s specified, make sure to check your gauge.
Notes
* This pattern is written using US terminology.
* In rounds that start with a ch 1, the ch 1 does NOT count as a stitch, so the first stitch will go in the same stitch as the chain. In rounds starting with a ch 2, the ch 2 DOES count as a stitch so the first stitch goes in the next stitch and you will slst to the top of the ch 2 to join. See Helpful Hints or the tutorial video below for stitch placement.
* Stitch counts are only listed when they change. If no stitch count is listed, assume it is the same as the last listed stitch count.
* When a number comes before a st abbreviation (2 hdc), it means work that number of the designated st into the same st (2 hdc into the same st). When the number comes after the st abbreviation (hdc 2), put the designated st into each of the next however many number of sts listed (hdc in each of the next 2 sts).
* Numbers in ( ) at the beginning of the instruction refer to round number. Numbers in ( ) at the end of the instruction refers to stitch count for that round. Instructions in [ ] indicate a group of stitches you will repeat a number of times per pattern instructions. Numbers in [ ] indicate the number of times you do something.
Video Tutorial
Check out the step-by-step video tutorial here, or keep scrolling for the written pattern!
RIGHT HANDED TUTORIAL:
LEFT HANDED TUTORIAL
Written Pattern
Base of the Bag
To start, you can either make a magic circle OR ch 4 and slst to the chain furthest from your hook to create a circle. Crocheter’s choice.
Round 1: ch 1, hdc 10 times into center of your circle, slst to first st to join (10)
Round 2: ch 1, 2 hdc in each st around, slst to first st to join (20)
Round 3: ch 1, *hdc, 2 hdc**, repeat from * to ** around, slst to first st to join (30)
Round 4: ch 1, *hdc 2, 2 hdc**, repeat from * to** around, slst to first st to join (40)
Round 5: ch 1, *hdc 3, 2 hdc**, repeat from *to** around, slst to first st to join (50)
Round 6: ch 1, *hdc 4, 2 hdc**, repeat from *to** around, slst to first st to join (60)
Round 7: ch 1, *hdc 5, 2 hdc**, repeat from *to** around, slst to first st to join (70)
Round 8: ch 1, *hdc 6, 2 hdc**, repeat from *to** around, slst to first st to join (80)
Body of Bag
Round 9: ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st to first st to join (80)
Round 10: Repeat Round 9
Round 11: ch 1, h-hdc in each st around, invisible slst to first st to join
Round 12: Repeat Round 11
Round 13: ch 1, *hdc2tog, ch 1**, repeat from *to** around, slst to first st to join
Round 14: ch 2, sk 1st st, hdc2tog, *ch 1, hdc2tog**, repeat from * to ** around, slst to 2nd chain to join
- NOTE: You will work into the ch sts, not the ch space!
- Helpful Hint 1: Your ch 2 counts as your starting ch plusyour first st. I recommend making the 2nd ch loose so it is easier to work into when you join at the end of the round. It can also be really helpful to put a stitch marker in that ch.
- Helpful Hint 2: See the tutorial video if you need help with the stitch placement for every hdc2tog after the first row. Your hdc2tog sts should be offset, not stacked!
- Helpful Hint 3: You will end the row with a hdc2tog (don’t ch 1 after the last hdc2tog!) and the second part of the last hdc2tog will go in the join space.
Round 15-16: Repeat Rounds 13 and 14
- NOTE: You will have 4 rounds of the hdc2tog + ch 1 stitch repeat.
Rounds 17-28: Repeat Rounds 11 through 16 two more times
Rounds 29-30: Repeat Round 11
Round 31: ch 1, *sc 3, sc2tog**, repeat from * to ** around, slst to first st to join (64)
Round 32: ch 1, sc in each st around, sl st to first st to join
Round 33: Repeat Round 32
Making the Strap
Row S1: ch 1, scblo in the first 4 st (4)
Row S2: ch 1, TURN, thst across (4)
Row S3-end: Repeat Row S2 until desired strap length is reached. For the last row of the strap, you will thst through both top loops AND the st from the row before.
- Helpful Hint: I recommend at least 20-25 inches (50-63 cm) for a shoulder bag. For a crossbody bag, it will depend on your body size and where you want the bag to hit on your hip. This could be anywhere from 30-70 inches (75-178 cm) in length or more. Try it on as you go and adjust as needed.
Attaching the Strap
Working along the top of the bag, count 28 sts from the base of the strap and place a st marker in that st. Count 3 sts past that and insert another st marker. This is where you will attach the strap.
Making sure the strap isn’t twisted, line up the edge of the strap between the st markers with the right side of the strap facing the right side of the bag. Slst across. Fasten off. Alternatively, instead of doing slsts, you can cut a long tail and whip stitch your strap to the edge of the bag. Crocheter’s choice.
Reinforcement
NOTE: In this section, a st count isn’t listed because it will be determined by how many rows are in your strap. It also does not need to be exact. Around the corners and across the strap, do what’s needed to make your stitches lay relatively flat.
1. Reattach your yarn in a corner where the strap meets the bag.
2. Ch 1, sc in each st along the top of the bag.
3. When you get to the strap, turn your work and continue to sc along the outside of the strap, placing one st approximately every one to two rows. (Need help with this? Check out the video!)
- Helpful Hint: If they are gaping/pulling, you need more stitches so place stitches closer together. If they are rippling, you have too many stitches and need to space stitches further apart.
4. When you get back to where you started in the corner, slst to your first st to join. Fasten off.
Repeat the reinforcement on the other side of the bag.
Weave in ends and you are finished!
Want an ad-free, print optimized version of this pattern with instructions for additional sized bags? Purchase the PDF in one of my shops: Etsy, Ravelry
When you make one, I want to see it! When posting on social media, be sure to tag @fromnicolescreations.
Happy stitching!
